EAT
When in doubt, look for queuing Parisians. That’s the advice that led us to discover Le Comptoir, an off-the-guide-book-beaten-path restaurant with charmingly cramped premises and a consistently outstanding menu. The white wine is cold, the bread is crusty, and the oeuf mayonnaise is the best in Paris. Honest—there’s even a certificate that says as much framed and mounted on the wall.
Le Comptoir, Hôtel Relais St.-Germain, 9, Carrefour de l’Odéon, 6th

SLEEP
Sure, you can find places more outrageous, more thoroughly antiqued, more opulent. But few hotels are as enviably located or tastefully appointed as Hotel Verneuil, tucked on a quiet back street just moments from the Cafe de Flore and the heart of St. Germain de Pres. Remember our earlier tip about queuing Parisians? The long line outside your local bakery alone shows that this is a special place to stay.
Hotel Verneuil, 8 rue de Verneuil, 75007, http://www.hotelverneuil.com

SIP
We  love a good speakeasy, an inclination in no way diminished by the fact that Paris wasn’t subject to the same restrictions that drove drinking ever so stylishly underground in the US. Thankfully, the city is now home to Prescription, an apothecary-like cocktail bar with brilliant concoctions and charismatic barmen. Try the Very Old Cuban. Trust us.
Prescription Cocktail Club, 23 rue Mazarine, 75006, M° Mabilllon, Odéon, Saint-Michel

SHOP
You know Colette. You’ve done Merci. But have you visited Antoine et Lili? The vibrant interiors of this bohemian homewares and world fashion chain provide an instant uplift on the wintriest of Paris days. Visit for paisley-print scarves, mirrored throw cushions, and kitsch fixtures… goose lamp, anyone?
Multiple locations listed at www.antoineetlili.com

PLAY
If you haven’t tried one of the Velib bikes parked at hundreds of stands across the city, then as far as we’re concerned, you haven’t truly experienced the city. The first half-hour is free, so real Parisians tend to check out a bike, ride for 25 minutes, dock it, and take another for the next 25 minutes. On Sundays, bike around the Canal St. Martin and other car-free areas, and feel the city breathe. A bargain at 1 euro per bike, you’ll have plenty of change left for shoes.
www.velib.paris.fr

This landmark exhibition surveys the Saudi Arabian visual tradition through 200 archaeological artifacts and historic artworks.

Neolithic funerary stelae, carved stone tablets, are some of the most magnificent pieces on display. Three sandstone stelae unearthed near the small village of Ha’il over recent decades are almost modernist in their simplicity, despite being carved in the 4th millennium BC. In one, a man with two straps across his chest and a single dagger seems reminiscent of a Modigliani, or of the artist’s African mask sources.

Art flourished in the ancient kingdom thanks to its location at the heart of trading routes. Later, the birth of Islam led to a flourishing of new forms of devotional ornamentation.

The art from the crossroads of trade and religion makes for a captivating show. Visit the Louvre until September 27 to take it all in.

In the last few years Paris has witnessed a renaissance in small boutique-style hammam-spas that have sprung up in some of the city’s trendiest neighborhoods. Influenced by the North African and Turkish tradition of public steam baths; this new generation of hammams, with sumptuously tiled interiors and modern facilities is attracting a Parisian clientèle. Here is our pick of Hammam-spas with a following amongst the city’s style-conscious.

Les Bains du Marais

Come Sunday morning, one can expect a stream of well-dressed Right Bank residents at Les Bains du Marais; who come to detox from a weekend of partying before the work week picks up. The treatments typically begin with a session in the humid, eucalyptus-scented haze of the steam room, where patrons lounge amongst tiled ledges and Moorish curved arches as their pores release the week’s accumulated toxins. Next is the traditional exfoliation treatment where one is rubbed down in Maghrebi black soap and exfoliated with North African kassa gloves that remove dead skin cells; followed by a massage in fragrant Moroccan argan oil (made from the nuts of a rare heat-resistant tree). When their treatments are completed, white-robed patrons can be found in the neo-arabesque lounge, languidly sipping from cups of mint tea.  31-33 rue, des Blancs Manteaux 75004 + 33 1 44 61 02 02.

Mosaic Spa at the Hilton Arc de Triomphe

In the last few years, opulent hotels like the Hilton Arc de Triomphe, have developed hammam-spas. Decorated in a North African-Modern style, the spa offers an updated version of traditional hammam beauty treatments as well as facials, wraps, hydrotherapy. 51-57, Rue de Courcelles 75008 + 33 1 58 36 68 09.

Aux Bains Montorgueil

This women’s only boutique spa offers its clientèle a steam bath, a rubdown in black soap, an exfoliation and a massage. Of note is the detoxifying rhassoul clay treatment. Rhassoul is the lava clay found only in eastern Morocco, deep beneath the Atlas Mountains, that is known for polishing and purifying skin. Most treatments are followed by mint tea and Oriental pastries.  55 rue Montorgueil, 75002 +33 1 44 88 01 78

La Grande Mosquée de Paris

Want a history lesson with your spa? For a more traditional take on the hammam experience, head to one of Europe’s oldest and grandest mosques. Located in the Fifth Arrondissment next to the Natural History Museum, the mosque complex was founded after World War I as a gesture of gratitude to the thousands of Muslim soldiers from its colonies who fought against the Germans. No cost was spared as Morrocan craftsmen were brought in to carve, tile and construct a building that melds Arabian opulence with Art Deco rigor. It was inaugurated by the French president in 1926 and today houses the Salon de Thé de la Mosquée de Paris, an extraordinary pink marbled elegant tea room. On weekends one can find throngs of Parisians relaxing on its tiled garden terrace with a glass of mint tea and a delicious pastry dripping in honey. Its traditional hammam, for men and women, is considered one of the best in Paris. 2 Place du Puits-de-l’Ermite 75005 +33 1 45 35 97 33.

Hammam Pacha

Opened just in time for the Paris Spring 2009 collections, word quickly spread amongst the rows of attendees at the shows about this sumptuous hammam spa. Attracting a steady stream of editors, buyers and models in search of a little beauty TLC; Pacha offers a menu of treatments that includes mint scrubs and rose facials in a space that boasts floor-to-ceiling mosaics and heated marbled floors. Hamman Pacha, 17 rue Mayet, 75006 +33 1 48 29 19 66

Anne Fontaine

Fontaine has always been the destination of choice for those in search of the perfect white shirt (or a variation of it). But now those in the know have another reason to visit her Rue Saint Honoré boutique, which recently opened a hammam day-spa that has quickly turned into the hottest ticket in Paris. Located in the boutique’s lower level, the spa is designed by the legendary Andrée Putman. The space includes a hammam, relaxation area, jacuzzi and fully equipped dressing rooms.
Treatments come with poetic names like Rêve de Soie. Everything is natural and there are several treatments inspired by Anne Fontaine’s Brazilian childhood, like the Amazonian Baptism (Fontaine went through a traditional tribal baptism ceremony as an adolescent) where you can be slathered in fragrant resin containing 11 essential oils. 370 rue Saint Honoré, 75001  +33 1 42 61 03 70.

Want to re-create the Hammam-Spa experience at home?
Influenced by her Turkish grandmother, Yael Alkalay, the founder of the Red Flower beauty range, created a line of luxurious hammam based products. An update of the traditional hammam experience; the line is derived from essential oils, botanical extracts and other natural ingredients that promise to detoxify the boy and purify the skin.

Of note is the Moroccan Mint Tea Silt Purifier; a lather-rich body cleanser made from Moroccan mint and ground green tea, which removes impurities from the skin and leaves it refreshed. While the Jasmine Rose Rhassoul clay detoxifies skin with a blend of rhassoul clay and essential oils derived from Rose and Jasmine. The spa ritual is topped off with the Tangerine Fig Butter Crème; an antioxidant rich crème that leaves skin soft and protected.
Best of all, you can now take the hammam experience with you wherever you go. Alkalay recently added a hammam travel set with mini versions of all the line’s products, conveniently stored in a stylish leather pouch.
www.redflower.com