Designing under the label La Maison de Djian, the Beirut-based Alama quickly acquired a loyal following amongst a steady stream of Gulf royals and fashion forward Lebanese socialites.  Building on her success, Jihan recently introduced her line in LA, at studio Grammy 2010 held in West Hollywood, where she unveiled her Bonbon and Bagatelle lines to a group of Hollywood’s most influential stylists as part of her brand’s international expansion.

Born in Lebanon and raised in Kuwait, Alama graduated from the Lebanese American University in 1996, with a Bachelor degree in Fine Art, Graphic Design and jewelry design. Her line can be found at exclusive shopping venues such as Harvey Nicholas in Dubai and Riyadh, as well as private showings throughout the Middle East.

Roula Alaama, DIA’s LA correspondent sat down with the talented jewelry designer to discuss gems, inspiration and what she carries in her chic handbag.

As a jewelry designer what inspires you?

Art, in all its forms, has always been a part of my life and designing jewelry allows me to express my artistic side. I always say Art is the Face of God, because in many cases it’s a sincere expression of ones mood or experiences in life.  Ultimately that’s what I hope I bring to my work.

Are there any particular stones or materials you like to work with?

I work a lot with diamonds because they have this amazing sense of charm to them. They also impart a unique glow to the wearer.

Do you feel any obligation to produce pieces that are distinctly “Middle Eastern” in style?

I tend to approach my work as an art form rather than simply pure design. It’s not so much about creating a certain “style.” I wouldn’t describe my work as modern or classic simply because my inspirations come from so many different sources and take on many forms. On the one hand I can see the beauty in geometry and cubes, while still being inspired by more organic shapes found in nature, such as flowers and snakes.

Finally, what do you carry in your handbag on a regular day?

You caught me in travel mode, so I have my large black Chanel shopper tote. I usually carry a diamond encrusted tube that I had made, filled with solid perfume that I also commissioned from a Paris perfumery. My iPod touch, and 3 phones (I am travelling) but using the GOLD Vertu. My Schneider Black Samsung 12.2 camera-I photograph everything as you never know when inspiration will strike. My black shiny Louis Vuitton wallet, over stuffed and my Mont Blanc pen in Black & Gold. My Louis Vuitton make-up bag filled with Chanel blush, MAC Baby Pink tinted lip conditioner and Trinity hand crème.

Written by Roula Alaama

Interview by Roula Alaama

Images Courtesy of Jihan Alama

Illustration by Gabriela Mot

Jovial yet extremely sharp, NADA AL NASHIF is not your obvious UN worker. Tirelessly traveling across the Middle East as the regional director for the International Labor Organization (a UN agency specialized in worker’s rights) she is passionate about her job. Of Palestinian heritage, al Nashif studied at Oxford and Havard’s Kennedy School of Government, before joining the ranks of the UN. It seemed she found her path immediately, as she has not left the UN since, slowly or actually not so slowly, rising in the ranks of this noble yet at times bureaucratic organization.  She’s worked in such different places as Libya and New York, with stints in Iraq and Lebanon in between. Today, she is based in Beirut and travels across the region on a weekly basis, making sure international standards for worker’s rights are reflected on a national level.  Not an easy task. We asked the director what she carries in her handbag, on a busy week, shuttling between Sanaa and Damascus.

1- How did you start working at the UN?

The UN was recruiting directly from school. At the time, I was studying for a MA in Public Policy at Harvard’s Kennedy School. I started off working at the UNDP and haven’t left the UN since. I’ve been moving geographically quite a bit though. I started in Libya, working there from 1992 to 1995. Then it was New York for four years. Then Lebanon, with a stint in Iraq. Then back to New York. Since 2007, I’ve been posted in Lebanon as the regional director for the ILO, the International Labor Organization.

2- Can you tell us about the nature of your work at the ILO?

The ILO defends worker’s rights, looking into conditions of work, making sure international standards are reflected nation wide in labor policies and social protection. We look at Arab workers but also the big number of Asian workers in the region. There is really a lot of work. At this time, the biggest problem in the Middle East is unemployment in light of globalization. The nature of work has changed but education has not. IT penetration is low, agriculture is inefficient and women are still marginalized in the workforce. Even though their level of education has progressed, women are still not considered when it comes to highly valued jobs and remain in the informal sector. There’s severe inequality in pay between men and women. These are some of the things we look at. We also work to prevent child labor, in fact, we look at any form of exploitation in the workforce. Whether it’s the lack of health insurance or the marginalized groups that slip through safety nets, such as domestic migrant workers.  For instance, our job is to try and convince people and states that Filipino workers shouldn’t work more than 8 hours a day, that they have the right to a day off and to private space. Right now,  we are working to create a kind of unified contract for migrant workers that would guarantee their basic rights.

3- With the economy booming in many parts of the Middle East, are unemployment rates high?

You would be surprised. The biggest percentages of unemployed are educated young people. Their education is not relevant to the skills needed in the modern labor market. They lack skills such as problem solving and languages. They’re also not very adaptable, they don’t adjust well to the changing needs of the labor market. There is a real mismatch between education and jobs. Right now, this is one of the principal concerns of policy makers in the region.

4- Did you always want to work for the UN?

Until the age of 13, I wanted to be an archeologist, then a historian. Naively, I believed there would soon be nothing left to discover, that discoveries would in effect dry out!

5- What would be your advice to young people who might be considering working for the UN?

My general advice to young people is to make sure you study something you enjoy. Of course, you have to think about the world around you, but you can always find an angle to adapt your passion to the job market.  Good education is not what you study but how you study. You need to stretch your imagination and develop a sound analytical framework.

6- You’ve traveled all over the world, what is your favorite place?

I’ve been to over 40 countries. My favorite place is Peru, I’m really besotted with the country.

7- And what has been the most difficult place to work in?

The most challenging to work in – in my region – is Yemen. It has a complex population with an enormous potential.

8- With all this traveling, can you share some packing tips?

I have a complete travel bag always ready to go, with duplicates of everything I need: deodorant, shampoo, hair dryer… For clothes, I pick easy to wear clothes that can fit many occasions. I usually have a long day, so I need clothes that can get me by from the morning, let’s say a breakfast meeting with a minister, to a day of fieldwork before another official dinner in the evening. I keep one pair of heels, not too high or too low and match with clothes that can come together and apart. For instance a white t-shirt with a black jacket to which I can add a string of pearls in the evening to dress up.  I always carry an iPod and a good book, for the long waiting hours at airports. Right now, I’m reading Salman Rushdie’s latest book, “The Enchantress of Florence.”

9- Last but not least, can you tell us what you carry in your handbag on a normal day?

These days, I carry a brown Botega Venetta handbag. Inside, there’s a Samsung cell phone as well as my electronic organizer. Since there’s no Blackberry in Lebanon, I’m addicted to my Palm. I also carry a small notepad which is printed by the ILO, with our corporate design.  Chewing gum: my favorite is the original Stimorol, sugar free. Some Advil pills, stashed in a Betty Boop tin box. A dozen UN ids.  Since the political troubles in Lebanon, all UN staff members carry a VHF radio at all times with them. A Montblanc pen, a Mac Viva Glam lipstick and YSL gloss. L’ Occitane’s hand cream that works wonders. My Kate Spade black wallet. I love this wallet because it was with me in the explosion in Baghdad, when the UN office was bombed. After the explosion, they gave me back my wallet intact. I usually carry a copy of the IHT and Al Hayat newspapers. I also have a spare pair of glasses to read. They’re Japanese handmade glasses. Another ILO notebook, this one much bigger. My life at work is recorded in this spiral hardcover notebook. Because I love strong perfume, so I have a bottle of Etro’s “Royal Pavilion”, that said, I change  perfumes a lot. These days, I also have DVD copies of two of my favorite films: “The Barefoot Comtessa” and “Khali Balak min Zouzou,” an Egyptian movie from the 70s with Souad Hossni.

Illustration by Gabriela Mot

Dia hasn’t quite explored interior design yet, preferring the art and fashion worlds. But that’s because we hadn’t met Romanos Brihi. A young up and coming interior designer, with serious good taste and the kind of decision making we crave when pondering what Dyptique candle to get (none, go for Cire Trudon).  Based in London, Brihi has a foot in the South of France as well as Switzerland and Lebanon. Quite convenient if you’re a Middle Easterner looking to get your new flat/house/chalet decorated. So Mr. Brihi, what’s in the briefcase of a busy London interior decorator?

When did you know you wanted to be an interior decorator?

I was very fortunate to be able to travel far and wide as a child and quickly developed a passion for the eclectic styles, colours and designs I encountered. I was always collecting unusual and unfamiliar items and decorating my room with them.

What has been the hardest job you’ve had to this point?

The first project is always the most difficult as it is the biggest learning curve. It is crucial as it starts defining your style and management for the next projects.

What are some of the tricks of the trade you can share with us?

Getting my clients to trust me – once I have their trust I can work magic.

What have been your inspirations? Does your Middle Eastern side ever come to play a part?

I lived in Paris for a short period of time. I was in awe of the architecture and range of interiors I experienced there. The Middle East has played a big part in my development as an individual and as a designer. It is one of the oldest cultures in the world and has some wonderful textures, pigments and inspired use of colour.

What is the single item of decoration you re-use again and again with every new job?

I always insist of some injection of colour – in today’s trends people tend to want everything neutral but colour even in tiny portions can have astounding effects.

Who are the decorators, designers, artists you look up to?

Fernand Leger for form and harmony. Grace Kelly for her elegance combined with Hollywood glamour of the 50’s.

Lastly, what do you carry in your briefcase on an ordinary day?

My Smythson’s diary and sketch book which hold my life in them!
My Mont Blanc pen – it has a lot of sentimental value as it was given to me when I finished my first project.
My Blackberry – I always need to be available for work.
My gym kit – You never know when you may have a half an hour spare
A Whole Foods recyclable bag – I am a firm believer in re-using bags and you never know when you will be popping in to shop!
I always have a book on me, usually a biography or historical portrait. At the moment I am reading, A Prince of Our Disorder: Life of T.E. Lawrence.

Illustration by Gabriela Mot

Perhaps the most polite and unpretencious designer we’ve met, LAYLA KOURIS is slowly building a niche, with her sexy yet elegant line of tops. Born in 1977, Kouris grew up in Lebanon before studying marketing in the UK. After a stint at jewelry emporium Mouwad in Beirut, she resolved to change track,  and attended night classes at London’s College of Fashion. “For me, breaking into fashion was a labour of love fueled by passion and dreams.”

Unlike many designers, you didn’t always think you would end up in fashion?

Actually I did.  Although I studied Marketing at university, I knew all along I was meant to be doing something else. I always had an eye for fashionable clothes and the colours surrounding me.

There are hundreds of people who want to become fashion designers, was it hard to break through?

I had my ups and downs, bringing my work to life and getting people to understand it. My journey into the fashion world started in 2005, when I designed my first line of tops that could be dressed up for the evenings and dressed down with jeans, just as I would like to wear them myself.

You also didn’t follow the trends and decided to create a collection, very much inspired by lingerie?

I don’t like to limit myself to the trends that come and go.  I am into more lasting designs. I always design with the idea of having sexy and comfortable pieces and that often translates into pieces that are close to lingerie. Invariably, lingerie brings out the feminine feel in every woman.

Who are the designers and brands you particularly like?

La Perla, Valentino, Fendi.

Can you tell us about your latest collection?

The collection is about glamour and sophistication. Lace clearly dominates, giving a delicate and feminine touch. The colour black is also an important element, to add to the mysteriousness.  The designs are accentuated by bows, and have a versatile magnetism to them as they can be dressed up with a skirt or dressed down with jeans.

Where do you see your line going in the next few years?

I want to expand internationally, and have a wider collection that will include dresses….

Aside from your Beirut showroom, where can people buy your clothes?

Cream in Saifi Village (Beirut) and Boutique Etoile in Dubai.

What other cities in the Middle East could you see yourself living in?

Abu Dhabi, UAE.

And finally, can you tell us what you carry in your handbag on a normal day?

Ouff – I’m quite organised, so I only carry the essentials. These include…Chanel sunglasses, Nuxe hand cream that you can buy in pharmacies, Vaseline lip therapy with aloe vera, Purrell hand sanitizer, a little mirror, spearmint Trident chewing gum. I’m a Louis Vuitton addict, so LV wallet and LV daily planner.  A Fendi key chain with my house, car and showroom keys, last but not least, my Nokia mobile phone.

Illustration by Gabriela Mot

With a whopping sale at the French auction house Artcurial and a recent show at the Third Line Gallery in Dubai (just finished) GOLNAZ  FATHI has something to be happy about. Known for her beautiful abstract calligraphies – which have more to do with Jackson Pollock than Islamic Art – Fathi is now experimenting with new, more conceptual and minimalist techniques. Between her many trips and her work in her Tehran atelier, Fathi tells us what she does, what she likes and what’s in that handbag of hers.

Today, you are an established artist, but was it always easy for you?

Not at all! I’ve worked really hard and I had so many ups and downs.

What are you working on now?

On a new series of paintings, it’s a totally new style from what I’ve done before.

Do you think calligraphy will always be important in Middle Eastern art?

I think so.

How do you explain the recent boom of interest for Arab and Iranian art?

We deserve it.

If you could change one thing in Teheran, what would it be?

To have freedom.

Would you ever consider moving somewhere else?

Sometimes I think about it…

Who is the one living artist you admire most?

There’s more than one but the one that comes to mind right now is Bill Viola.

What’s your favourite dish?

It has to be Chelo Kebab – it’s a typically Iranian dish.

And your favourite movie?

Nights of Cabiria by Federico Fellini.

On a normal day, what do you carry in your handbag?

Not that much actually! My keys, Emporio Armani sunglasses, a purse, a chap stick, Oral B dental floss, a simple pen and some tissues. Sorry to disappoint you!

Illustration by Gabriela Mot

Since her collaboration with Bristish designer Julien Macdonald, Egyptian jeweller AZZA FAHMY is everywhere. She’s recently published a book on traditional Egyptian jewelry and has also started a school to train craftmen and designers in jewelry design. Her brand – Azza Fahmy Jewelry (AFJ) – which employs 300 people, is often cited as the example to follow, with outlets across the Middle East, a soon to be store in London and a solid international reputation.

How do you explain your incredible success story?

Through focus, sheer dedication and tremendous hard work. I was blessed to have the support of my family and to have lucky breaks – the masters of El khan Khalili who let me train with them and the British Council who gave me the opportunity to build on and perfect what I had already learned. Significantly, my jewelry has stood the test of time with innovative and relevant designs creating broad appeal.

You recently published a book on traditional Egyptian jewelry? Do you think you have helped Egyptians rediscover a great art?

I sincerely hope so. As is the norm, if historic references are not captured, we loose them, and so important parts of our very rich heritage are lost. So yes, I have, and I also trust that this art will be fully recognized and celebrated for many years to come.

What would be your advice to young jewelry designers from the Arab world?

I would give this advice to every young designer: grasp every opportunity, don’t be discouraged by ‘knock-backs’ and work hard. Don’t be afraid to take risks, be innovative and above all, be true to your designs and yourself.

Does Azza Fahmy Jewelry, as a brand, have any plans for the future? More stores? Another collaboration with an international fashion designer? A school to train jewelry craftsmen?

We are continuing with our expansion plans both in the Middle East and and looking at retail opportunities in the US. We are currently working on our jewelry for the continued collaboration with Julien Macdonald – the outcome of which was seen during his London Fashion Week catwalk show last month. We have also just begun our training school for designers where we aim to equip this group of young people with the knowledge and skills to continue innovating and maintain our position as leading jewelry designers. We will also be launching our online retailing operation later in the year.

Finally, what do you carry in your handbag on a normal day?

A million things in my Bottega Veneta bag: My sketches and pencils, my books – right now I’m reading three – The World of Renaissance Florence (I plan to spend at least 1 month a year in Florence starting this year), Meditation of Ornaments and Thinking Through Crafts. My magnifying loupe, Body Shop lip balm and all the regular stuff: My phone, keys, etc. Fragrance – either Gucci Eau de Parfum or Armani Prive – plus a bottle of water.

Illustration by Gabriela Mot

NOUF AL QASIMI is a gastronomical tour-de-force – and green to boot.  Food writer, food historian, and blossoming chef, her passion for good food is rooted in a beguiling – and timely – philosophy of “eco-gastronomy.”  Of mixed Emirati and Lebanese-American heritage, Al-Qasimi, 27, enjoys a position among Santa Fe’s culinary cognoscenti as Leader of the local convivium of the international Slow Food movement.  Her momentum in the world of eco-cuisine is informed by a Yale degree in Fine Arts and a Masters in Traditional Chinese Medicine, a unique pedigree that allows her to marry a holistic appreciation of food and the body with an artist’s approach to refining flavors, building menus, and plating.  With plans to visit Beirut this winter and, one day, to open her dream restaurant near her family, Al-Qasimi stands poised to take the Middle Eastern culinary world by storm – one exquisite, loving bite at a time.

How did you first become professionally interested in food?

I’ve been fascinated with food since early childhood. Not just cooking and dining, but agriculture and anthropology, food-related history and literature. I was obsessed with collecting texts, blogging about food, food photography, participating in cook-offs and online food forums, and for a while I even operated an underground restaurant. I used to fantasize about living off the grid and farming my way to self-sufficiency. In 2005, I went to Lebanon to work with Souk el-Tayeb during a break from my job in alternative medicine public health policy reform, and Kamal Mouzawak, who was running the Souk and Slow Food Lebanon at the time, gave me the wake-up call I needed. I was gunning for a PhD in Nutritional Epidemiology at the time, thinking it the perfect confluence of all my interests. We were talking about some esoteric artisanal products that we both like, and afterwards he just looked exasperated. “What are you doing?” he said. “Why aren’t you doing this for a living? You have endless energy for it.” And the light clicked on.

Tell us about the philosophy and structure of the Slow Food movement. What is the nature of your work in New Mexico?

My work right now involves cooking and learning about how best to run a serious restaurant from both front and back of house, with the intention of opening and running my dream restaurant someday soon near my family. My work as a Slow Food leader is a volunteer effort. The Slow Food movement is founded upon this concept of “eco-gastronomy”, which is about balancing life’s fundamental pleasures with the act of making responsible choices. It’s a non-profit organization that was founded 20 years ago to combat fast food, fast living and people’s waning interest in their food sources. We have many ways of doing that; one way is through old-fashioned hedonism – Slow Food tastes better! – and another, for example, is by educating people about the global effects of their food choices. There are Slow Food convivia established in 132 countries and there are over 85,000 members worldwide.

We are fortunate to have a Board driven by amazing, inspiring women who have dedicated their lives to the pursuit of good, clean and fair food, in accordance with Slow Food values and principles: local, seasonal, organic, sustainable. We also work to preserve the heritage of local traditions and culture.

You’ve spent the last couple of years building your repertoire as a chef.  Can you tell us about one of your most memorable culinary learning experiences?

You can strive for perfection in this business but if you’re someone who can’t handle failure, humiliation and stress, then it’s not for you. Some of my most valuable lessons have been exercises in character; learning to be relentless, ruthless, to take orders and work through pain, and to wake up and do it all over again. But my greatest ‘aha!’ moment was when I was ten and had decided for the first time to make family dinner from a cookbook I had found. Among other things, there was a spinach soup that I completely destroyed. I didn’t know how to make a roux, as instructed, and the finished product was brimming with pellets of flour that exploded like miniature bombs of sawdust. This led to two singular goals: learning what I did wrong, and perfecting the recipe. I can see how similar failures would drive people away from something they’re initially attracted to, but it only spurred me forward.

When did things start to come together for you on the food front?

When I decided to come to the U.S. in order to learn about the restaurant business from the inside out. I had left Lebanon by necessity and knew what I wanted to do. I think some of us need a more palpable, hand-on sense of interacting with society than others. So I sharpened my knives and dove in, terrified. Within weeks I was established as a working chef and was eventually offered a weekly food column in a local paper, which I write under a pen name, so I suppose that makes me a restaurant critic – an interesting idea in itself considering the oft-perceived elitism of such a role.

Does your training in Oriental Medicine ever enter into the mix?

Absolutely. First, I have always found Japanese-style acupuncture more compatible with my general philosophy. While in school, I went macrobiotic for about ten months, and I embraced the challenge of turning a stringent nutritional plan into something that felt lavish and playful. Then, there are the five elements in Traditional Chinese Medicine, which are analogous to the five tastes. Have you ever had a fudge brownie that’s missing that requisite pinch of salt? It tastes dull. Like Oriental Medicine, cooking is all about balance. Sweet vs. salty, thought vs. feeling, sensation vs. intuition, art vs. science. I think about color and presentation on the plate that way, too. Is it complementary? Health is huge motivating factor for me. Who cares that it’s delicious, if it doesn’t feel good as it’s digested?

Is Santa Fe home?

One of my favorite quotes is by Jean George Nathan, “A man reserves his true and deepest love not for the species of woman in whose company he finds himself electrified and enkindled, but for that one in whose company he may feel tenderly drowsy.”  That’s the best way I can explain the dichotomy of my identity within the Arab world; Lebanon is my great love, and the UAE is my best friend. Santa Fe is my pilot light now because it’s where my work is focused, it’s been good to me and I love it here too. But what is home? For me, it’s as much a primal, spiritual calling as a pragmatic emotional one. The people I love most are in the Emirates, so that’s home. Then again, when I arrived in Lebanon I knew next to nobody and felt instantly at home.

How do your Middle Eastern roots come up in your culinary expression?

Alas, I don’t have any stories of learning to cook at my Situ’s side. I wish I did. She was a magnificent cook, and when she died, her recipes went with her. It was like the warm hearth of the family suddenly went dark, though there’s a strong lineage of cooks in my mother’s family, and we all love to eat.

I believe we’re shaped by our longings as much as our experiences; as a chef, I’d love an arsenal of family recipes that reflect my roots, but the reality with oral traditions is that sometimes you have to make adjustments or start from scratch- and that process can be just as meaningful.

I developed a decent palate and good technique while working my way through Clifford Wright’s book “A Mediterranean Feast: The Story of the Birth of the Celebrated Cuisines of the Mediterranean from the Merchants of Venice to the Barbary Corsairs.” Once you have a solid foundation, you have the skills and confidence to experiment, and that’s where personal style enters the scene. In my case, that means playing with flavors I love that are integral to Arabic food; pomegranate, saffron, figs, rosewater, mint, almonds, and then incorporating local, seasonal foods from the Farmer’s Market. The landscape here allows for amazing tomatoes and eggplants, apricots and lamb, just like Lebanon, but also regional specialties like green chile, grass-fed beef, corn and fresh goat’s cheese.

What do you hope to accomplish on your upcoming trip to Lebanon?

I never said a proper goodbye to Lebanon because I left so abruptly in 2005, so above all, this trip is about love. Batroun captured my heart. I miss the Arab world. When Obama won the presidential race, I felt so proud of Americans but also optimistic about the hope that lies ahead for Arabs. I believe one should serve the community wherever one lives, so hopefully Kamal can put me to work.

If you want insight into a culture’s psyche, look at how they eat; nobody in the Middle East does bold, fresh, bright flavors with more panache or joie de vivre than the Lebanese. I also love the fact that Lebanese women and men really take pride in their work, in using their hands, and in their culinary heritage. It’s a beautiful thing.

You’ve traveled all over the world in search of delicious food. Do you have a favorite eating experience?

No way! That’s like choosing a favorite color or musical symphony or constellation in the sky. My most stimulating restaurant experience was at a restaurant called Okariba in Kyoto, where the chef hunts for and prepares all his own food, including bear and insect larvae. My favorite fine-dining experience was at Manresa in Los Gatos, CA, where I enjoyed 21 courses of pure poetry on a midsummer night a few years ago. But the most glorious eating experiences always involve the quelling of the cravings of the soul as well, so those would include cold leftovers eaten with my sisters at 3am, a hot, juicy reindeer hot dog on an grassy Alaskan hillside after a month without hot food, and the generous kitchen efforts, however modest, of a loved one. When we’re happy, our senses are heightened.  I’ve eaten some mediocre things at my happiest and found them transformed by the expression of love.

Last but not least, what’s in the handbag of a gustatorial renaissance woman?

I buy one new handbag every few years and am a big fan of recycling my old ones, but I can’t tolerate anything I have to tote around in my hands. Right now, I have a 2007 Cinnamon Balenciaga Besace messenger. It carries a green Bottega Veneta wallet, a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TZ3 camera for photographing food, a plain tube of Lip Schtick lip balm which I love because it doesn’t interfere with what I’m tasting, a black pen, a black Moleskin notebook, a cell phone that is mostly switched off, dental floss, keys, licorice Altoids, a few hemp sacks for impromptu grocery stops, and a small Peugeot pepper mill. No frills, no spills – just how I like it, but no thrills either, I know.

Illustration by Gabriela Mo

With the launch of our new site, we chose to start our Handbag interview with SARAH BEYDOUN, one of the first Middle Eastern designers whose products we sell in our Global Souk.

Sarah Beydoun fell into fashion almost by chance. With a sociology degree from university, her idea was to start a rehabilitation program for women in prison and prostitutes. And so a line of handbags was born. But no one imagined Beydoun, and her partner Sarah Nahouli would become such a phenomenon. The little clutches with Arabic quotes gained the favours of fashionistas across the Middle East, culminating with Queen Rania sporting one at Felipe of Spain’s wedding.

Beydoun shares with Dia her insights on her business and reveals the contents of her handbag.

Click here to buy Sarah’s Bag

How did you start designing bags – I believe you are a sociologist by training…?

After studying sociology at the American University of Beirut, I earned my master’s degree from the Université Saint Joseph, where I wrote my thesis on female prostitution and women in prison. I decided to set up “Sarah’s Bag” with my childhood friend Sarah Nahouli as part of a rehabilitation program, whereby women in prison would work and learn valuable skills in the creation of accessories in return for a reliable income. In the process, traditional expertise in embroidery crocheting and hand stitching would be revamped and presented in a contemporary way.

Did you have any idea the company would pick up as it did when you started? How many people work for you today?

When I first started my aim was purely social, I wanted to help these underprivileged women but instantly our creations were appreciated and started to be sought after, so Sarah and I took it very seriously. We never knew we would go that far (no business plan, no funds) but we were very cautious with each step we took because we knew we have so many women relying on us for their livelihood. Now we have over 100 people working with us.

Is there still a social program behind the bag manufacturing?

After almost 8 years we are still working with women in prison. In addition to Baabda prison we are now working with the Tripoli prison. Upon their release from prison they can continue working with us. We also encourage them to pass on their skills to a network around them. We have expanded our line to include a trendy selection of wedding and baby souvenirs, shawls, kaftans, sandals….So when there is less handwork in the bags they are working on other items.

What inspires you in your designs?

I absolutely love what I do, so look at every thing in terms of bags… a nice curtain can make a nice fabric for a bag…a funky wall paper print can be transformed into a print to be beaded… a door knob can make a odd bag handle…I also draw a lot from traditional expertise in handwork and from our cultural heritage. I love the fact that our bags reflect our culture, our identity as Middle-Easterners.

You’ve had your fare share of famous people sporting Sarah’s bags. Can you name a few?

Queen Rania of Jordan was the first, then came the French legend Catherine Deneuve; lately Lebanese director and actress Nadine Labaki was spotted wearing our bags on different occasions.

Do you have any plans to expand?

We are working on an expansion plan; in the mean time we are going to be selling on line from our own website www.sarahsbag.com and on Dia…of course!

And finally, what’s in your handbag?

As for the what’s in your bag…My bag  is always bursting with sample materials we are researching, a small book for ideas, my wallet my phone , my camera… and I only wear a Sarah’s bag!

Illustration by Gabriela Mot

One of the first female Saudi recording artists, MAY KUBTI has imposed her unique genre, as a poet and musician.  With her seductive voice, she talks to Dia about a world of longing and suppressed emotion – easy on the ears and soft on the heart.

So May, are you more of a poet or a singer?

A poet. But a poet with an amazing passion for music. Music inspires me and drives me to write.

What are some of the challenges you’ve had to overcome?

To be honest, convincing my immediate environment that what I’m doing is not going to affect my personal life. It wasn’t society, but rather my inner circle that I had to persuade. I also had to overcome personal fears and hesitations, those “what ifs” that I always ask myself. But I’m confident and have people who now believe in me and support me.

What would you like to achieve?

I want to be a pioneer in my genre. I love the idea of combining words of poetry and music melodies. I hope to promote classic literature through this medium and hopefully, one day, open a school dedicated solely to poetry and literature. I had someone tell me, “You made me love poetry,” and that’s exactly what I want to do. I want to become a classic poet, like the classics that I admire so much.

Tell us more about your music?

It’s very chilled out. It’s about the fusion of poetry and music. You’re listening to poetry, not lyrics.

Who inspires you?

A lot of writers…a lot! Nizar Qabbani, Ernest Hemingway, Edgar Allen Poe are just some names that come to mind.  I also love Greek mythology.

What is your album’s overall theme?

Well, the title is “Ashiqat” which means lover. I think my album covers the feelings of women, but the feelings, which are not easily expressed. Each song is a mood or emotion that I believe is universal to women and that she may relate to.

What does your success mean for Saudi women?

I think that Saudi women see me as an example of going against the status quo. Although there were many obstacles, I’m very proud of having been able to achieve what I wanted. I see myself and my career as proof that only you can make things happen to make your dreams come true.

And finally, what does a romantic pionneer like yourself carry in her your handbag?

Antibacterial gel! I can’t live without it. And Amber hand cream and perfume. And then of course, the necessities: wallet, keys, phone, and ipod. Did I mention, antibacterial?

Horoscope: Aquarius

Loves: Nature

Occupation: Poet,, Musician

Perfume: Reminiscence

Hates: Agony

Chocolate: Green & Black’s

Illustration by Emma Rudge

GHIDA FAKHRY is probably one of the best known Arab news anchors outside of the Middle East. A graduate of BU and SOAS, Fakhry worked as a correspondent for Asharq al Awsaat and Abu Dhabi TV in New York before being appointed as one of the lead anchors for Al Jazeera’s English news channel in Washington DC.

How does it feel to be one of the best known female anchors on a channel like Al Jazeera?

Being a television news anchor, I am presumably known but not necessarily well-known! I am first and foremost a journalist who happens to be a woman. A particular challenge for me in my current position is that I now work for a Middle Eastern network that has an international reach to English speakers across the world. The choice of words can be, at times, challenging due to the different interpretations each market will have as a result of their varying cultures, politics and history. Working for Al Jazeera in English is one of those rare opportunities one gets to bridge both cultures and to be part of a news organization that revolutionized the media landscape in the Arab world. It is now modernizing the way news gathering has worked for the past few years by redressing the flow of information and analysis from South to North and by breaking the monopoly a handful of western media outlets had on the flow of information.

We all have our bad days and yet, when you are on air, it’s probably best not to show it…

A natural yet certain amount of anxiety compels a high degree of concentration on the job at hand. The pressures, and therefore the responsibilities, vis-à-vis our audience is such that once the camera rolls, one is impelled to forget issues of one’s daily life – at least while on air.

Are you the typical kind of Lebanese who thinks in English, Arabic and French?

I suppose that when I worked for Arabic language media outlets I used to think more in Arabic, whereas at present, working in English, I tend to think in that language. But interestingly enough, I still count in French.

Your passions in life?

My husband!

In the world of media, who are the people you look up to?

If there is one person who inspires me, it’s Ted Turner as he transformed the television media by introducing continuous global news coverage. The appeal of the CNN concept is that it brings people from across the world together in one forum. It may well have been the first manifestation of what we call globalization today. I am also inspired by journalists whose work is a call of duty, a passion, and who do not sacrifice their journalistic integrity and who dare to challenge centers of power and authority.

A message to aspiring Middle Eastern female journalists?

Believe in yourself, take risks and don’t be deterred by setbacks. The media industry is very competitive and employers are not necessarily altruistic; they are business people. Impose yourself as a journalist and forget that you’re a woman. Be also aware that the profession requires some sacrifices but don’t let your professional aspirations undermine your personal and family life. Journalism can be very rewarding but also addictive, so it is important to stay disciplined to exercise this fulfilling profession without letting it take over your life. And don’t forget that, no matter how successful you are, what you produce is a public good: the stories you tell can change people’s lives and make a real difference and that’s where your focus should always be.

Ghida, what are the things you carry in your handbag on a normal day?

My current bag is a Mulberry handbag. In it I have some notebooks, my phone and quite a bit of makeup: Mac’s Duo Bronzer, Studio Tech Foundation and Whirl lip liner, Estee Lauder’s Magnascopic Mascara, and Kiehls Hand Cream.

Illustration by Gabriela Mot